Culture served up daily Thai markets
Far more than just a place to pick up food or household items, the 'talad' throughout the country give tremendous insights into the distinctive traditions and cuisines of local communities
In Thailand, markets offer far more than just food and household items. Anyone intrigued by the country's language and culture, society and environment will find a lot to interest them in a market, as well as things that give insight into Thailand's economy, creative ingenuity, handicrafts and regional cuisines. In a way, a Thai fresh market can be seen as a rich, living reference library on all things Thai.
Thai markets originated and took shape together with the country's earliest society. People required various things for their everyday lives. There were some foods that they could make or produce themselves, and then there were other items they had to acquire from others. As a result, a system of exchange evolved. A household that grew rice needed salt from another household that produced it in their evaporating pond. Those who lived near forests and burned wood to make charcoal needed iron tools and agricultural equipment. Cloth weavers needed lanterns, and fishermen wanted fruit or coconuts.
Markets were the centres of trade. In a time before money came into use as the medium of exchange, markets were set up at agreed-upon times and places, not only as trading sites but also as centres of communication where villagers could find out which temple was organising a merit-making ceremony, what fairs or entertainment events were in the offing and what activities the government was planning for the locale. Family news was also shared, both good, like weddings or sad, like word on a family member who was ill and unlikely to recover.
As society grew, so did the markets. The range of goods sold in them broadened and they were held more often. Items offered by wandering traders became available over wider areas, and there were carts that sold things such as medicines or cheap goods offered with attractive giveaways. Temporary markets that had previously convened only on certain days became permanent and offered everything locals needed. Over time, these trading places came to reflect the character of the communities that supported them, with their traditions and culture, and since people went to the markets at all times of the day, the favourite local dishes were prepared for sale there as well. As a result, they have become the best places for outsiders to learn about local cuisines.
One market that is fun to visit is located in Tak province's Mae Sot district. There are more people from Myanmar living in this district than Thais, so the atmosphere there is like that in a Myanmar market.
The best time to go is in the morning, when Myanmar housewives, with the herbal powder they traditionally use rubbed over the faces, shop with their purchases balanced on their heads.
You will find vegetables being sold there that you may never have seen before, and delicious fish such as the fresh-water pla yeesok and scaleless types like pla khao and pla nuea awn. You may even find the prized pla kraho, with its large scales, a species that is extremely scarce in Thai rivers. All of these fish have certainly been brought in from Myanmar, as have the sea crabs caught along the country's southern shores.
You will also find many fried sweets that may be new to you. Among them are pengmong alawa and suay thamin, both extremely popular with the Myanmar and Thai Yai.
The first is made by mixing rice flour, palm sugar and coconut cream and pouring the mixture into a pan that is then set on the stove. A galvanised metal plate is set on top of the pan and burning charcoal placed on it to brown the top of the sweet. Suay thamin is a batter of rice flour mixed with palm sugar and steamed in a pan until cooked, then topped with thick coconut cream. CDs of Myanmar music are also sold in the Mae Sot market, and there are shops that sell Myanmar curries such as kaeng karee khai tom, made with whole, hard-boiled eggs.
Another market that demands a visit is in Chiang Mai, on Soi Charoen Prathet 1, also called Soi Masayid Jeen Haw (named after a Chinese Muslim community). It is open every Friday from the morning to the afternoon, and is basically a Chinese market for people originally from border areas of China near Doi Angkhang, Pai and Wieng Haeng districts who came to Thailand as refugees more than 50 years ago.
The vegetables sold there are all types preferred by Chinese living in China, not Thai-Chinese, and include the root called woy soong and the herb called soam tang kui sod. Also available are Yunnanese ham, or salted pork, imported from China, and delicious tao jio (a salty fermented soya bean sauce with whole beans included) and see iew (another soya bean sauce without the beans). There is Chinese-style kimchi, or pickled cabbage, both with and without chillies, and a special salted beef. The market is patronised by Chinese Muslims, and the experience of shopping there is like going to a small market in Kunming.
One other market well worth a visit is at Sripho municipality in Nong Khai. It is located near Wat Sripho, and visiting it is like going to a Vietnamese market. There you will find French-style baguettes stuffed with moo yaw (a mild pork sausage) or moo yong (fluffy shredded dried pork), Vietnamese-style rice noodles, roast pigs considerably larger than the ones that the Chinese prefer, and river fish from the Mekong.
Maybe most interesting of all is the area toward the back of the market where prepared foods are sold. There are tables and chairs, so that the dishes on sale can be eaten right there.
You can choose from pho (Vietnamese-style rice noodles in broth), poh pia thawt (fried spring rolls) and other rice noodle dishes such as the stuffed, Vietnamese-style khao kriab pak maw and kui jap Vietnam.
On the morning of every wan phra (Buddhist holy day) floral offerings made using banana flowers are sold in front of the market for visitors to take into Wat Sripho. They are beautiful, made with the greatest artistry, but are sold at an unbelievably low price.
These are just a few examples of the many markets that reflect the characters and traditions of the ethnic communities that support them. Even a short visit can teach you a great deal about their customs and way of living. The vendors and regular patrons at the markets are often happy to answer questions and offer information that would be hard to find elsewhere.
A trip to any of them will be well rewarded.
A former Outlook staff member and now retired, Suthon Sukphisit has written articles on Thailand's art and culture and on topics related to Thai society, history, archaeology, architecture, environment and education. These days, he spends his leisure time pursuing another topic in which he is well versed: Food and cooking. He can be reached at
suthonsukphisit@hotmail.com.