Locally sourced tastes
Bring back these forgotten but divine Thai dishes
Being an avid chef, one of the questions that Tanaporn Markawat has been asked most is how he became interested in cooking. He said it wasn't a question of "becoming interested" in food - it was an inborn passion.
Ever since he was a child, he always helped out in his parents' restaurant, and his childhood memories are all about his mother's cooking skills and the authentic flavours he experienced when going on trips with his family.
When he went to study in New York, he was exposed to a much wider array of food, which was when he realised he did not know much at all about the culinary world. Putting his cooking experience aside, he embarked on a new journey to learn all about Thai cuisine from scratch, looking for the best Thai cooking masters he could find.
"I once met chef Ian [Pongtawat Chalermkittichai] in a supermarket and I just approached him. I met the James Beard-nominated chef Arun Sampanthavivat, I walked right over to talk to him. I was so passionate about learning," said Tanaporn.
He also started collecting old recipe books and searched for local products that are not well known. He has visited every market in Bangkok in his search for hidden gems. He felt even more strongly about introducing authentic Thai tastes to Thais who might have forgotten, or perhaps never known, some delectable Thai dishes.
Following the success of his mother's restaurant, Naj, which is known for its exquisite Thai cuisine, he recently opened the Local by Oamthong to serve dishes that many Thais will not have tasted. Some are adapted from ancient royal recipes, some are his family's secrets and some are his own creations.
"I just hope that this restaurant will introduce a bigger variety of Thai food to locals and foreigners. Thai food is not just tom yam gung and green curry!"
POMELO SALAD
INGREDIENTS
METHOD
Heat sugar, salt and lime juice together for two minutes. Mix pomelo with the above ingredients in a separate bowl.
Cook shrimps by boiling and add boiled shrimps, spring onion, roasted coconut and fried shallots then mix them together. Garnish with mint leaves and sliced red chillies.
GAENG RANJUAN (AROMATIC CLEAR SOUP)
INGREDIENTS
METHOD
Put chillies, shallots, shrimp paste, lemongrass and garlic into a mortar. Pound until they become smooth paste.
Gently simmer beef shank in the beef stock, adding enough water to cover the meat, until it is almost cooked. Check regularly and add water to ensure that the meat stays covered, skimming any scum that rises. Add the paste to the pot and stir, season with sugar and fish sauce. Cook until the meat is tender, and remove from heat. Add the sweet basil leaves and serve.
