Know your tuna
Vanessa Frida | The New Paper | Mon Jul 23 2012
Singapore, July 23, 2012
If you had to pick a fish dish for your last meal, what would it be?
I was posed this strangely specific question recently.
My answer, after much deliberation: Otoro sashimi.
What is there not to like about this great cut of bluefin tuna?
Inspired, this week we explore the world of tuna.
There are many species of this fish – but they all have a meaty texture and are high in healthy fish oils.
Here are the four that are most commonly found.
BLUEFIN TUNA
Bluefin is the largest tuna and its deep red meat is prized as sashimi.
It has the darkest and fattiest flesh of all the species and a distinctive medium to full flavour with a firm meaty texture.
As the fish matures, the flesh turns a darker shade of red – almost similar to raw beef.
Most of the bluefin harvest is exported to Japan and sold at a premium price for sashimi.
My favourite, otoro sashimi, is taken from the under-belly, which is separated into different grades according to the marbling of the flesh.
Grade 1 is the best. Also known as “sashimi grade”, it is the freshest and has the highest fat content.
Grade 2 is “grill-grade”, which means it’s better to be cooked.
Grades 3 and 4 are of poorer quality, though I have only seen grades 1 and 2 in Singapore.
Otoro comes from the lower belly of the fish closer to the head.
The flesh is soft pink with vibrant white lines.
When you pop it into your mouth, you experience that great texture of raw tuna, while your tastebuds are treated to a burst of rich fish oil with a creamy aftertaste.
Otoro is so good I even converted a friend who isn’t a fan of raw fish with this sashimi.
YELLOWFIN TUNA
Yellowfin tuna is sometimes known as ahi – its Hawaiian name.
It’s less expensive than bluefin because it’s not only less flavourful but also more common.
This mild-flavoured fish with a firm texture is a deep shade of red when served sashimi style and does not have as much fat marbling as the bluefin.
I recommend using it sashimi style as when it is cooked through, it loses so much flavour it becomes almost tasteless.
If you don’t enjoy sashimi, try searing just the outside of a yellowfin tuna loin, slice it thinly and serve it as a salad topping with a nice punchy dressing. Japanese sesame salad dressing would be ideal.
ALBACORE TUNA
Albacore tuna is also called tombo tuna or chicken of the sea.
This is the label that caused Jessica Simpson to notoriously mistake the meat for chicken on her reality TV series some years ago.
This variety of tuna has the lightest flesh and the mildest flavour but it is also the most popular and the only type of tuna meat which can legally be classed as “white”.
Canned tuna in the supermarkets usually use albacore tuna. Its mild-to-medium flavour and firm, flaky flesh make it ideal for canning.
BONITO
Bonito is also known as skipjack tuna. It has a very strong flavour and is high in fat content. It’s also the smallest species of tuna.
It’s best known in its dried form – bonito flakes – and is used in Japanese cuisine.
Aside from using it dried, it is also the most important ingredient in making a type of Japanese fish stock known as dashi.